From the garden experience of Felder Rushing

Unless you are in a race or something, there are only two “rules” for successful composting: Stop throwing all that stuff away, and pile it up somewhere.

What actually creates compost are bacteria, fungi, worms, and many other small creatures who digest organic debris (leaves, mulch, grass clippings, weeds, and kitchen scraps such as vegetable trimmings, coffee grounds and filters, and the like). Decomposition time will vary depending on the type and size and of the material, and the amount of air and water present.

In general, there are two kinds of organic debris: “Brown” stuff (dried leaves, mulch, paper), which is slow to decompose, and “green” stuff (fresh grass clippings, vegetable trimmings, weeds), which composts almost too quickly. What happens in a good compost pile, is the bacteria and fungi “eat” the brown stuff, using nitrogen from the “green” stuff to build their bodies and help in digestion. Therefore, a good blend of green and grown stuff composts the best.

If you want a “pretty good” compost pile that works regularly without a lot of work, simply blend a little green stuff - or a natural source of nitrogen fertilizer, such as cottonseed, fish, or blood meal - with lots of brown stuff. NOTE: Don’t overdo the green stuff or nitrogen, or the pile will turn to ammonia! One part green stuff to 10 or 20 parts of brown stuff is sufficient for composting. As long as the pile stays moist and aerated (doesn’t pack down) it will compost withing three or four months.

If a compost bin starts to smell, simply add more “brown” stuff and turn or aerate the pile.

While even a simple leaf pile works for composting - even just throwing materials behind other plants or burying them in garden rows - most composters make simple bins to keep things neat and orderly. A bin made of four wooden pallets wired together works fine, or a cage made from a roll of half-inch mesh “hardware cloth” available at lumber yards. Covering the bins is not necessary, and can prevent rainfall from keeping the pile moist. Sun or shade makes no difference, but in areas where tree roots grow into the compost, lay an old shower curtain on the ground before piling on compost materials.

Here are some quick tips for speeding things up, if you want “hot” compost that kills weed seeds and many disease organisms, or need lots of compost within three or four weeks:

- Make sure particle sizes are small by tearing or shredding them into small pieces
- Add a small amount of soil or compost to "innoculate" the pile with healthy bacteria
- Keep the pile moist - Turn or aerate the pile every week or two
- Pile the compost at least 3 or 4 feet high and wide (a bin helps with this) to “trap” the heat generated by active bacteria

Notes:
There is NO need to add lime to a compost pile! Really.
And if FIRE ANTS get in the pile, just work around them, or throw a piece of clear plastic over the pile to overheat and drive ants out.

Again, there is no race for compost - a slow-working leaf pile, once started, can be a continuous source of compost with only occasional replenishing of fresh materials. In fact, the best “rule” for composting is simply to forget the rules, and just do it!

As my friend and co-author Steve Bender, senior garden writer for Southern Living Magazine says, “Maybe we can’t change the whole world, but by slighting modifying the way we garden, we can chance a small part. And that’s a start.”